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Famed choreographer Willi Ninja's pioneering dance moves and gender-fluid style had a lasting influence on music and fashion, which still persists to this day.

Dior’s haute couture runway show in Paris saw the French fashion house tap into the most exclusive trend of the moment: quiet luxury. Brought to the fore by HBO television show Succession – which put the spotlight on the ultra-wealthy – quiet luxury is all about sleek, understated clothes that ooze elegance and wealth. Dior’s latest show took place at the Musée Rodin in Paris, a grand 18th-century mansion that displays Auguste Rodin’s work, most notably the famous sculpture The Thinker. In keeping with creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s continued dedication to feminism, the collection was themed around female narratives and representation in ancient mythology. The show opened with a model wearing a classic white gown with caped sleeves trailing to the ground. This set the aesthetic tone – models wore lots of long, flowing gowns in muted colours – mainly whites, earthy tones, navy or grey hues. There was lots of layering, sheer panels and flowing skirts – but everything was so precisely tailored that silhouettes were kept crisp and sharp. After all, this was a couture collection – seen as the pinnacle of craftsmanship, garments are one-of-a-kind and require a lot more skill, time and money to produce. While clothes were mainly left plain – as is the trend within quiet luxury – there was the odd subtle accent. Think intricate knotwork, heavy beading and floral appliques, adding to the overall feeling of wealth and glamour. The styling was kept simple – models wore their hair in low ponytails with a centre parting – and Dior made the case for a new trend: wearing one statement drop earring, instead of a pair. The show closed with a model wearing a heavily embellished caped gown – like a more formal, red carpet-ready version of the opening look. Celebrity guests on the front row also wore silhouettes and simple designs that felt like quiet luxury. Australian actor Elizabeth Debicki – who plays Diana, Princess of Wales in The Crown – kept things chic and French-inspired with her outfit, wearing a black beret with netting over the top, a simple white tank top and a black leather skirt. House ambassador Natalie Portman wore a white strapless gown with watercolour-style pastel accents. A familiar face on the Dior front row, actor Rosamund Pike had her hair slicked back, and donned a black dress with an off-the-shoulder neckline. At the end of the show, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri took a brief bow, her own outfit another prime example of understated luxury: a simple yet impeccably tailored navy suit. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live The history of royal fashion at Wimbledon Cardi B and Tracee Ellis Ross sit front row at Schiaparelli show in Paris Affected by someone else’s drinking? 3 key pieces of advice for loved ones of alcoholics

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Ties between Wimbledon and the royal family go back a long way. To 1907, to be precise, the first year that the Prince and Princess of Wales (who would become King George V and Queen Mary) attended the famous Championships. King George V later became patron of the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club, a role now held by the current Princess of Wales. Kate Middleton’s outfits are pored over almost as much as the action on court, and looking back at royal appearances at the tournament we can see how fashion has evolved throughout the decades. Keep up with Wimbledon 2023 via our liveblog. As the iconic Championships begins today (Monday 3 July), a fashion expert talks through some key looks and what they tell us about the style of the era… King George V and Queen Mary During the first Wimbledon Championships after a four-year hiatus due to World War I, the 1919 women’s final was attended by King George V – who was known to dislike contemporary fashion – and Queen Mary. “When George arrived at Wimbledon, the hub of fashion inspiration for trendy Brits going into the Twenties and Thirties, he stood out like a sore thumb,” says Rosie Harte, author of The Royal Wardrobe. Queen Mary wore a fringed dress with a loose coat, hat and gloves, and carried an umbrella. “She, like other members of the royal family, felt pressure to fall in line with George’s conservative fashion preference,” Harte continues. “And so appears here dressed in a slightly dated, soft and cluttered outfit at odds with the trim tailoring and sleek silhouettes beginning to emerge in women’s fashion.” Queen Elizabeth II Queen Elizabeth II became patron of the All England Club in 1952, but only visited the Championships a handful of times. The first was in 1957 when she attended the women’s singles final, wearing a floral midi dress with white accessories. “Unlike the celebrities of their day, the most dutiful of Wimbledon-bound royals have often avoided pandering to the tennis aesthetic when styling themselves for an appearance,” says Harte. “Even as a young Queen at Wimbledon, Elizabeth was always more fond of an outfit that read homely British romance rather than the wardrobe of the modern woman.” The monarch returned to the tournament in 1977, donning a pink coat dress and hat, and in 2010, wearing a similar ensemble in aqua blue. “Each appearance followed the rubric of the Queen’s royal uniform which, as the years went on, became more and more regimented,” Harte says. “Whether she was on the green or sat in a sea of spectators, the eye needed to be drawn to the Queen through the use of vibrant colours that do not typically feature in the Wimbledon setting.” Diana, Princess of Wales Tennis fan Diana attended Wimbledon more than a dozen times during the Eighties and Nineties, during which time her personal style evolved considerably. “Going into the Nineties, the Princess of Wales was under no illusion that her marriage was the fairytale it had initially been framed as,” suggests Harte. “Consequently, the frothy, fairytale elements of her wardrobe, inspired by the traditional looks of more senior royals, began to disappear.” Floral frocks and roomy sailor dresses made way for more structured and tailored looks. Harte says: “Her white pleated skirt in 1991 embodied an elevated tennis skirt, and in 1995, her pale suit jacket with sunglasses folded over the collar set her apart as a sleek modern woman.” Kate Middleton Another big tennis fan, Kate has been snapped in the audience at Wimbledon as far back as 2007, but her first memorable fashion look came in 2012, a year after she married the Prince of Wales. Kate donned a seemingly tennis-inspired knitted dress from Alexander McQueen (the label that made her wedding dress) with a drop-waist and blue accented cuffs and hem. “She radiated the essence of the iconic pre-war tennis star – an aesthetic largely rejected by the royal family,” says Harte. Taking over from the late Queen as patron in 2016, Kate has continued to reference tennis colours over the years with green and white dresses, and in 2022 opted for vintage-inspired looks. “Last year saw her attending Wimbledon in various outfits that used cut, colour and accessories to reference the fashions of the daring, modern woman who emerged in the 1920s and Thirties,” says Harte. “Her bright yellow Roksanda Ilinčić frock was the most subtle of these, but the vibrant colour was uncompromising, making her an unavoidable figure at the event.” Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live The Idol should have been about modern cults rather than Tedros’s weird kinks Stanley Tucci recalls trying to break up with wife Felicity Blunt over 21-year age gap Plans for Prince Andrew to move into Harry and Meghan’s former home ‘quietly shelved’