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Ukrainian designers prove beauty can come from darkness at London Fashion Week
Ukrainian designers prove beauty can come from darkness at London Fashion Week
A Ukrainian fashion designer said she will continue to “work no matter what”, after showing her latest collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Nadya Dzyak was one of three designers showing their latest collections in a showcase dubbed ‘Ukrainian Fashion Week’. This is the second season Ukrainian Fashion Week has taken place in London, as the traditional Kyiv-based event has been cancelled due to the ongoing Russian invasion. The show took place on the final day of LFW. It began with a voiceover saying: “Creating collections is our resistance to war”, going on to highlight that the fashion is a manifestation of “our strength and resilience”. “No matter what, we work. We’ll work because it’s our life and it’s our fight, to create new pieces,” Dzyak told the PA news agency backstage after the show. She said it was particularly meaningful participating in London Fashion Week, calling the city “the main centre of the world of fashion”. She said: “You cannot imagine how it’s important for us – it’s very strong, it gives power, it gives a lot of emotions.” Dzyak founded her eponymous brand in 2008, and her spring/summer 2024 collection was full of bright colours with sheer dresses laden with ruffles and frills. She said she was inspired by Ukrainian artist Polina Raiko, who was part of the naïve or folk art movement and died in 2004. Raiko’s museum house in Oleshky was flooded after the Russian destruction of the Kakhovka Dam earlier this year. “I was inspired by her drawings on the walls from this building,” Dzyak said, likening her design process to “painting with ruffles”. She continued: “This collection is about hope, about kindness, about optimism, about belief in lightness and victory. You can see very bright colours – for me, it’s something very beautiful.” The designer brought her bright colours to unconventional denim looks, which were dyed on the porch of her parents’ house. “My father helped me hand-dye clothes and dry them in the sun. There was something archaic, almost ritualistic in this process,” Dzyak said in a statement. “It made me reflect again on how we will carry the metaphysics of our heritage into the future, everyday life, traditions, parental love.” Also showing her latest collection was Elena Reva, who founded Elenareva in Kyiv in 2012. Her aesthetic was much more pared-back, with a muted colour palette on romantic gowns and structured tailoring. She was inspired by ancient Trypillian culture, which had a powerful cult dedicated to the Mother Goddess. Reva told the PA news agency backstage that the jewellery in the collection was designed to give “power and energy, because we need the power now”. She added: “It’s a very difficult situation in our country – it’s terrible. [But] we have to continue our jobs. We have to live… But it’s terrible when the rockets come in.” Her collection mixed masculine tailoring with feminine silhouettes, and created silver pendants of artifacts like amphora – made to look like items unearthed by modern archaeologists. Kseniaschnaider – the Kyiv-based brand founded in 2011 by married couple Ksenia and Anton Schnaider – was also on the runway. Denim dominated the collection in different forms, from patchwork jeans to distressed jackets. One of the models wore a denim interpretation of Cossack styles. All of the garments were made in Ukraine, with the brand adopting sustainable materials – such as aged-look denim dyed with a recycled finish made by cork stoppers. Kseniaschnaider launched the second drop of its collaboration with Adidas Originals during the show, including football tops in geometric patterns and a midi-length dress in Ukraine’s yellow, white and blue colours. At the end of the show, Dzyak, Reva and Schnaider walked down the runway with Ukrainian flags draped around their shoulders. Dzyak wants the world to know that Ukrainian designers are “very talented, very strong, very brave and very optimistic”. Reva added that it’s crucial for the world to see Ukrainian fashion, saying: “We have to tell about our culture, it’s very important. “We have a very strong community in Ukraine, and we have a very interesting story. And that’s why we have to continue.” Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Beginner’s guide to buying second-hand furniture Do I need to treat my garden furniture before storing it for winter? Prince William heads to New York for UN General Assembly climate week event
2023-09-19 22:49
Brits struggle with mental health due to cost of living crisis
Brits struggle with mental health due to cost of living crisis
People in Edinburgh, Leicester and Glasgow are struggling the most with their mental health - due to the cost of living crisis. A poll of 2,000 adults found 27 per cent have really taken a hit when it comes to their wellbeing, because of a lack of finances. Newcastle, London and Leeds are other key cities where people are most affected. Cutting down on socialising, gym memberships and nutritious food to save money are reasons why so many feel disheartened and worried about their mental wellbeing. And 40 per cent are dreading the winter as they are unsure if they will be able to afford energy bills to heat their home. The survey was commissioned by British Gas, which is working with Professor Green to raise awareness of the struggles so many are facing and highlight the free support available in the new phase of the British Gas Post Office Pop-Ups. The musician and mental health advocate said: “As a parent your first instinct is to protect and provide, and when you’re doing everything you can, and that’s still not enough, it has a profound impact on your mental health. “Shame, stigma and fear can keep people from speaking up for help, but it’s the best thing you can do – for yourself, your family and your community. “Stress and anxiety breed in uncertainty so I really encourage you to visit a British Gas Post Office Pop-Up or contact the British Gas Energy Trust to help you gain confidence in, and control of, your future.“ The research found 14 per cent of adults are cutting back on how often they shower to lower their bills, and 21 per cent aren’t buying birthday gifts for loved ones. One in 20 (five per cent) say their kids are missing out on new toys. Just over half (55 per cent) believe their mental health would definitely improve if they were more financially stable. People in Manchester were found to be most likely to skip using heat or electricity to keep their homes warm. But those in Edinburgh were most likely to report that they have had issues with money that have led to incurring additional debt, like credit cards. Only 27 per cent of all adults polled via OnePoll are confident they are accessing all the benefits they may be entitled to when it comes to support with their energy bills. One in 10 also believe the rising cost of energy has caused them a great deal of additional stress. And 25 per cent baldly state they are expecting to struggle to pay their energy bills through the rest of the year. Nearly the same amount (24 per cent) said the current cost of living crisis has been just as bad for their mental health as the Covid-19 pandemic. British Gas Energy Trust CEO Jessica Taplin said: “Debt and money stresses are debilitating, which is why we are delighted to be offering money and energy advisors funded by us in Post Offices across the country. “Working with an artist like Professor Green can really help raise awareness, and let people know it’s good to talk about the things that are worrying them.” Read More Voguewashing London Fashion Week won’t pay the wages of Britain’s young fashion designers What is happening to local government finances and why are councils struggling? ‘School staff seeing more students who do not have enough dinner money’ Nearly a fifth of parents fear children will ignore health issues while at university How often should you wash your pyjamas? ‘My baby’s blue eyes drew praise – but their colour was a warning sign’
2023-09-19 22:49
Nearly a fifth of parents fear children will ignore health issues while at university
Nearly a fifth of parents fear children will ignore health issues while at university
Nearly a fifth of parents fear their teenager will ignore a health issue while at university, as many self-diagnose on Google, research has found. Just 13 per cent of the 2,000 parents polled think their son or daughter would consult a proper doctor as soon as they feel unwell. More than one in 10 (12 per cent) think their offspring would be too lazy to seek medical attention, and 11 per cent fear they do not make their health a priority. The study of parents whose children either attend university, have done in the past or plan to soon, by Bupa Family+, also found that many (53 per cent) said their child thinks they are ‘invincible’ and nothing bad will ever happen to them. And as thousands of students prepare to start university, 56 per cent of parents feel excited for their child while 41 per cent are anxious. Dr Naveen Puri, GP and spokesperson for Bupa Family+, which commissioned the research to support the launch of its Family+ insurance proposition built around savings on health insurance for families, said: “All parents worry about their children, whatever their age. “But it can be especially difficult when they move out for the first time and become more independent – and you are no longer nearby to help them. “As a child and even a young adult, when you are unwell or have a health issue, your parents are often your first port of call, or even the ones spotting something is wrong in the first place. “They are usually the ones pointing you in the right direction, sorting appointments and arranging medication you might need. “Moving out or going to university is both an exciting and daunting time for all the family and we hope our new Family+ cover, which also insures older children, will help provide peace of mind to parents and their children alike.” It also emerged that parents’ top fears for their children as they embark on life away from the family home include their financial situation (44 per cent), their mental health (43 per cent), and whether they will be lonely (43 per cent). Others worry about who they will be spending time with (31 per cent), if they’ll know how to look after themselves (32 per cent) and what they’ll do when they feel unwell (23 per cent). And 64 per cent of those who have a child who has already left home admitted they have even lost sleep worrying about them. It emerged that 55 per cent think they would still be the first port of call for help or advice if their child felt unwell despite no longer living under the same roof. Ahead of them moving out, 63 per cent of parents will teach them how to manage their finances, while 59 per cent give tips on how to cook healthy meals. Others show their child how to use a washing machine (56 per cent), how to drink responsibly (40 per cent) and how to deal with mental health concerns (43 per cent). The study, carried out via OnePoll, also revealed girls are considered more likely to take care of their physical (43 per cent) and mental (41 per cent) health than boys (13 per cent and 11 per cent). Dr Naveen Puri, GP and spokesperson for Bupa Family+ said: “Our health is so important, and it can be worrying for parents that their child may be unwell when they aren’t there to help. “Making sure they have the knowledge about what to do in different health situations is a great way of not only ensuring they can look after themselves but also allows you to relax a little knowing they have the tools they need.” Here are the top reasons why parents worry their child would ignore health issues: 1. Googling and self-diagnosing 2. Being too lazy 3. Health is not a priority 4. Embarrassed to talk about their health 5. Worried a GP would judge them Read More ‘It can be hard when your kids leave the nest,’ mother says as study finds parents want their children back How to cope with anxiety during university How often should you wash your pyjamas? ‘My baby’s blue eyes drew praise – but their colour was a warning sign’ Brits get itchy feet in their home after five years, study finds
2023-09-19 22:22
How Old Is Too Old for Trick or Treating?
How Old Is Too Old for Trick or Treating?
Some communities have ordinances banning teens from knocking on doors. But are they justified?
2023-09-19 21:19
How a rural Alabama school system outdid the country with gains in math
How a rural Alabama school system outdid the country with gains in math
While the rest of the country’s schools were losing ground in math during the COVID pandemic, student performance in a rural Alabama school district was soaring
2023-09-19 20:49
Far from home, Ukrainian designers showcase fashion that was created amid air raid sirens
Far from home, Ukrainian designers showcase fashion that was created amid air raid sirens
For Ksenia Schnaider and her fellow Ukrainian designers, the show must go on despite the war in their country — or precisely because of it
2023-09-19 19:56
The Best Way to See Africa's Great Migration, on a Safari Without the Crowds
The Best Way to See Africa's Great Migration, on a Safari Without the Crowds
We were in hot pursuit. Dust rose up behind our Land Cruiser in a massive cloud as our
2023-09-19 17:17
How often should you wash your pyjamas?
How often should you wash your pyjamas?
We all have our favourite pair of PJs we come back to – time after time. Some of us may even have special pyjamas for lounging around in and feeling comfy when snuggled up with Netflix on the sofa. But because they’re only worn inside the house and for sleeping (well, most of the time), the rules can seem different when it comes to PJ maintenance. So, how often should we be washing them and switching to a clean pair? Do you need to wash your pyjamas daily? “You might be surprised to know the answer is no!” says cleaning and laundry expert Laura Mountford, author of Live, Laugh, Laundry. “Like all of our clothing, many of us may be guilty of washing our pyjamas too frequently, or perhaps not enough. But in reality, pyjamas should be washed after every two or three wears. Washing them after every wear, unless they are actually stained, smelly or sweaty, is unnecessary – a waste of money, water and energy,” Mountford adds. She suggests pyjamas can be left to air between wears, and this should be sufficient for them to freshen up ready for the next night – so putting them under your pillow probably isn’t the best idea. Should you wash them more in the summer? “I wash my pyjamas more in the summer when the nights are hot,” says Mountford, “as sweat can cause bacteria growth, which will make them smell. And nobody wants to snuggle into bed in sweaty pyjamas, do they?” What’s the most hygienic way to wash your pyjamas? Sophie Lane, product training manager at Miele GB, says: “Wash pyjamas at the highest temperature the fabric can cope with – check the garment care label. This will deliver the most hygienic clean. Detergent is also important to achieving good results.” Are different materials more or less hygienic? Natural fabrics like cotton are the most hygienic, suggests Mountford, as they are breathable, so bacteria and sweat builds up less quickly compared to manmade fabrics like polyester. Lane agrees, adding: “Cotton is also extremely durable and can withstand high temperature washes. Bamboo is another good fabric option for pyjamas. It’s very breathable whilst being effective at thermal regulating, to keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. It’s also anti-bacterial, hypo-allergenic and odour-resistant.” What happens if you don’t wash pyjamas regularly? Mountford says: “Most of us wear our pyjamas for eight hours each night, so not washing them frequently enough can cause bacteria to grow, making them smelly and unhygienic… not very cosy at all. This may reduce the quality of your sleep,” she adds – noting it could result in “skin irritation” too. Does it make a difference if you shower before bed or in the morning? “Showering before bed keeps your pyjamas and bedding fresher for longer, as you are jumping into bed with a clean body, having already removed the dirt, bacteria and allergens from the day,” says Mountford. “Not showering before bed will cause these particles to be transferred onto your nightwear and bedding, which will cause them to get dirty and smelly more quickly.” Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Beginner’s guide to buying second-hand furniture These are the best shorter daffodils to plant now for spring – according to RHS trials Do I need to treat my garden furniture before storing it for winter?
2023-09-19 15:59
Dubai Opera House Raises Artistic Aspirations, But Will Audiences Notice?
Dubai Opera House Raises Artistic Aspirations, But Will Audiences Notice?
Hi, it’s Lisa Fleisher, your luxury correspondent for the Middle East. The Gulf is barreling toward the busy
2023-09-19 15:26
NASA Is Finally Looking Into UFOs
NASA Is Finally Looking Into UFOs
The space agency now has an official division for investigating reports of flying objects.
2023-09-19 03:29
See an Annular Solar Eclipse Cast a “Ring of Fire” in October’s Sky
See an Annular Solar Eclipse Cast a “Ring of Fire” in October’s Sky
In October, catch this special type of solar eclipse that occurs only once every year or two.
2023-09-19 01:29
Balmain’s creative director claims more than 50 of his Paris Fashion Week pieces were ‘hijacked’
Balmain’s creative director claims more than 50 of his Paris Fashion Week pieces were ‘hijacked’
Less than 10 days before Balmain’s spring/summer 2024 collection is scheduled to hit the runway for Paris Fashion Week, over 50 of the brand’s debut pieces were allegedly “hijacked” and stolen. On Saturday, 16 September, Olivier Rousteing, the Parisian fashion house’s 12-year creative director, took to Instagram to announce the garment crime. The 37-year-old explained how he’d arrived at the office by nine in the morning, anticipating the arrival of the last few designs for their upcoming show. However, he received a call from the driver meant to transport the pieces from an airport in Paris to the Balmain headquarters. The individual confessed that his vehicle had been overtaken, resulting in the theft of more than 50 looks. “Our delivery was hijacked. The camion got stolen. Thank god, the driver is safe,” Rousteing wrote. “So many people worked so hard to make this collection happen. We are redoing everything but this is so so disrespectful.” “This is so unfair. We will work more, days and nights. Our suppliers will work days and nights as well, but this is so disrespectful,” he continued. “I wanted to share this with you to remind you, don’t take anything for guaranteed and please be safe. This is the world we are living in.” The details surrounding the incident, such as the airport location and hijacking time, were not released. Executives flocked to social media, discussing the unheard-of tragedy with their followers. Bernard Garby, luxury client manager at Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, and Esquire, discussed the news on TikTok and described it as “a real fashion drama”. “What happened is something I’ve never heard ever before,” the fashion expert, known to deliver industry recaps every morning, said. Bernard carefully described the unfortunate impact this incident leaves on the brand with a collection debut scheduled for 27 September. “It’s basically a pure robbery,” the famed user proclaimed. “I have never ever heard of anything like that before... They have less than 10 days... How stressful!” Additionally, Bernard made a point to connect this alleged robbery with that of Kim Kardashian on 3 October 2016, when the reality TV star was tied to her hotel bathtub while five men stole her jewellery from the room. Speaking to David Letterman in 2020, Kardashian recounted the traumatising experience. “He grabbed me and I was wearing a robe and I wasn’t wearing anything under it,” she recalled. “He grabbed me and pulled me towards him but I wasn’t wearing anything underneath. So I was like, ‘OKay, this is the time I’m going to get raped. Just deal, it’s gonna happen.’” @bernardgarby Today's Fashion News: Daniel Lee's Spring / Summer 2024 collection for Burberry and fashion drama at Balmain! #fashionnews #TikTokFashion #fashion #fashiontiktok #fashiontok #burberry #balmain #bernardgarby ♬ original sound - BERNARD “Just prepare yourself.’ So I did... But then he tied me up with handcuffs and zip ties and duct tape,” she noted. Bernard ridiculed Paris in his video, telling the city to “fix your situation down there”. He added: “It’s just not a good image. I am meant to be going to Paris for the Paris Fashion Week as well and I can tell you because of this news around Paris, Paris is really ruining its reputation. And it’s not looking good. I don’t feel safe going to Paris anymore. So you need to fix it.” The Independent has contacted Balmain and Bernard for a comment. Read More London Fashion Week 2023: All the highlights from day two London Fashion Week: Jourdan Dunn walks in emotional Richard Quinn show British Vogue appoints Chioma Nnadi as Edward Enninful’s successor British Vogue appoints Chioma Nnadi as Edward Enninful’s successor Naomi Campbell recalls racism she faced early on in modelling career V&A’s Coco Chanel exhibit doesn’t shy away from designer’s Nazi ties – review
2023-09-19 01:25
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