Birkenstock or bust: How a deeply uncool shoe became a modern must-have
How do you define “cool”? Maybe it’s ostentation. Maybe it’s exclusivity. Maybe it’s a 250-year-old orthopaedically inspired German shoe. In 2023, odds are it’s the latter. This week, it was announced that Birkenstock had landed on the US stock market with a $7.5bn (£6.1bn) valuation, more than double its worth in 2021. If you’re unfamiliar with these absurdly comfortable sandals, the classic “Arizona” Birkenstock features a layered sole made of jute fibre and moulded cork, offering your foot some serious support, with two thick suede straps coming in some sort of earthy hue. The brand itself dates back to 1774, when founder Johann Adam Birkenstock started making shoes near Frankfurt. But for a long time, the shoes themselves were the pinnacle of dorkiness. There was nothing chic about the geek connotations, either. They were just, to put it bluntly, a bit lame – often associated with exceedingly earnest, granola-eating American liberals, and dubbed everything from “Geekenstocks” to “Flintstone feet”. You get the idea. Today, though, Birkenstock sells roughly 25 million pairs of shoes a year, and the brand is seen on and celebrated by stars such as Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Katie Holmes and Sienna Miller. Some have even been spotted wearing them with socks, demolishing decades of jokes about a look once considered fashion’s cardinal sin. It all adds up to form the greatest redemption arc in footwear. But how has one company managed to pull off a complete 180, as if transforming a pumpkin into Cinderella’s glass slipper? “The German engineering that has gone into this product actually speaks for itself,” says fashion analyst and author of Look at the Labels, Jennifer Walderdorff. “There are no gimmicks: the shoe does what it says on the tin. Its reliability is what [makes it] a fashion staple.” It has not been a quick turnaround, though, its reappraisal starting – sort of – in the 1990s. Fashion fans may recall the famous photos of Kate Moss taken in 1990 by Corinne Day. They show Moss, then 15, posing topless on a beach in Camber Sands, smoking a cigarette in a series of shots that would later make her one of the most influential models and faces of her generation. But there is a small fact about the photos that often gets forgotten: Moss is wearing Birkenstocks in them. It took a little longer for the trend to catch on properly. In 2013, Oliver Reichert became the first person outside the Birkenstock family to run the company, and it’s his leadership that’s helped steer the brand’s perception. It was that same year, for example, that Birkenstock began making appearances on runways: Céline models wore blue fur-lined sandals inspired by the German shoe, while A-list stars including Naomi Watts and Ashley Olsen started wearing them out and about. That summer, American Vogue declared that its staffers had, against all odds, “fallen for the Birkenstock”, noting how “a bulky shoe is actually more flattering on the leg than you would think”. In the world we live in today, there is so much more room for fashion and function, hence the appeal of the Birk Jennifer Walderdorff, fashion analyst It’s from here that the humble Birkenstock began its ascent into the heart of the fashion zeitgeist. By 2017, there were designer collaborations, with Barneys New York partnering with the brand to release a limited edition line of pink fur-lined sandals. Collaborations followed with other brands including Opening Ceremony, Rick Owens, and, most recently, Valentino. But as the latest valuation shows, the brand found a new lease of life this summer. You could barely step outside your house without spotting a pair. As for what’s fueled this recent surge, we can look to the pandemic, when we forwent shoes entirely and got accustomed to putting our comfort above all else. When lockdowns were lifted, all of us re-emerged with a shifted set of sartorial priorities, with high heels falling further down the totem pole in terms of stature and status. Today, there is nothing trendier than having your feet close to the ground. What is particularly interesting about Birkenstock as a brand is that despite the constant movement of fashion trend cycles, the design of its signature shoe hasn’t changed. “Birkenstock has lasted so long and grown to be the super giant it is because of the awareness and availability of information on its benefits,” adds Walderdorff. “There are lots of clothing items that are no longer worn due to their detrimental effects on the body, like corsets, which realign your internal organs to no gain. Similarly, overwearing high heels contributes to foot deformities. In the world we live in today, there is so much more room for fashion and function, hence the appeal of the Birk.” The rise of “normcore” can also be attributed to Birkenstock’s popularity. Characterised by unpretentious, utilitarian and functional clothing, the trend lends itself to the aesthetic of an orthopaedic shoe. “Normcore” also provide Birkenstocks the air of new wave edge, the shoes slotting neatly into a look that has become particularly popular among east London hipsters – take one look at the Instagram meme account Real Housewives of Clapton (which parodies a very specific type of natural-wine-drinking, Perello olive-eating, east Londoner) and you’ll see what I mean. Fashion has also generally seen an exponential rise in flat shoes. According to the Lyst Index, the industry’s quarterly report ranking fashion’s hottest brands and products according to Google searches and social media mentions, the season’s must-have is the Maison Margiela Tabi, a split-toed Japanese-inspired loafer. In fourth place is the Nike x Martine Rose Shox MR4 Mule, a pair of Tory Burch mules came in sixth place, New Balance trainers in eighth. And what was in fifth place? None other than the Birkenstock Arizona, of course. Perhaps the final hurdle for Birkenstock was to align itself with the feminine ideal – a space previously occupied by stiletto heels. Now, though, changes in attitudes around feminism and how feminist ideologies can be expressed through a woman’s clothing and appearance – yes, feminists can wear makeup! – has created a space for Birkenstock after all. In fact, this formerly frumpy shoe is now being perpetuated as the bastion of femininity. Don’t believe us? Simply take a look at the hottest film of the summer. At the end of Greta Gerwig’s stellar Barbie, our hero (played by Margot Robbie) has undergone a major emotional transformation that has seen her find a sense of purpose and identity. Gone are the feet once permanently raised so that they were perfectly positioned for a pair of heels. By the film’s conclusion, Robbie’s Barbie is an autonomous figure, a woman epitomising everything about contemporary feminism. And that includes having feet that are flat. Her footwear of choice? Why, a pair of pink Arizona Birkenstocks. Read More The grown-up guide to getting ‘balletcore’ right The Barbie press tour has finally rescued Margot Robbie’s red carpet reputation Birkenstock sandals are Barbie-approved – these are the pink styles to buy now Taylor Swift’s jacket from Chiefs game hints at Travis Kelce romance From choppy bobs to fox red, 5 celebrity-approved hair trends for autumn How Taylor Swift’s style has evolved over the years
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From choppy bobs to fox red, 5 celebrity-approved hair trends for autumn
A change in seasons is the best opportunity to shake up your beauty look. Whether you want to go for a chop or style your locks in a different way, there are plenty of celeb-approved hair trends on the rise. These are the looks hair experts predict will be big this autumn… 1. Undone updos Undone updos are the perfect autumnal look for anyone who isn’t too bothered with precision. “Say goodbye to rigid, over-the-top updos and welcome a style that harmoniously combines comfort with couture,” says Gennaro Dell’Aquila, creative director of GA Salons. “Imagine French twists with artfully stray wisps or messy buns so masterfully executed they are nothing short of a work of art.” Model Kendall Jenner and Killing Eve actor Sandra Oh are just some of the celebrity fans of this look. If you want to recreate it at home, Dell’Aquila first recommends applying a small amount of texture product “to add volume and grip”, then: “Secure your hair into a low, loose ponytail, leaving a few strands out for a more relaxed look.” Finally, he says: “Gently twist the ponytail and secure it with bobby pins, allowing some ends to stick out for an undone appearance” – and finish with hairspray. 2. Glass hair On the opposite end of the spectrum is the growing trend for ‘glass hair’ – locks so straight and shiny, they seem to reflect light – seen on everyone from Demi Moore to new Big Brother presenter AJ Odudu. “This isn’t a style for everyone — it’s for those who wish to redefine perfection,” warns Dell’Aquila. If you want to try the look at home, Dell’Aquila recommends washing your hair with a smoothing shampoo and conditioner (“This will help in achieving the sleek and shiny look characteristic of glass hair”), before applying heat protectant and drying it. “For a sleek finish, blow-dry your hair using a round brush, ensuring all strands are perfectly straight and smooth,” Dell’Aquila says. “To achieve that glass-like shine, straighten small sections of your hair at a time. [Then] apply a lightweight shine serum or spray to enhance the glossy appearance.” 3. Curly fringes “A face-framing curly fringe will be all the rage this season,” predicts Jennie Roberts, Afro hair expert at SheaMoisture UK. “As more women transition to their natural hair texture, the curly fringe will allow them to take their Afro to the next level. The fringe should slightly curve towards the sides of your face for a seamless blend, which can be completed with a freehand cutting technique.” Look to celebrities like Grown-ish star Yara Shahidi, Pattern Beauty founder Tracee Ellis Ross and Barbie actor Issa Rae for curly bang inspiration. If you want to get the look, Roberts advises going to a natural hair specialist, “As they’ll be able to ensure the look is completed perfectly for your hair texture.” And to keep it fresh, she says you’ll need to get regular trims, use a diffuser (“to help set the curls in your fringe”) and products that keep your curls “councy and defined”. 4. Fox reds “Copper-coloured hair and autumn are a perfect match,” notes Roberts – and ‘fox red’ is set to be the overwhelming autumn trend for 2023, as seen on Daisy Jones And The Six star Riley Keough. “Fox red is a deep copper shade that has a more muted and brunette base as opposed to more vibrant coppers previously trending. It uses more red-based tones rather than orange, making it a more neutral and less fiery look,” explains Tyler Moore, expert hairstylist at Live True London. While it can be adjusted for most skin tones, Moore suggests it suits people with “pink-red and other cool undertones” best, “As shades in this range can help draw attention away from any red pigmentation”. If you have Afro hair, Roberts adds: “Be mindful because maintaining copper-coloured hair requires a lot of time and effort,” and it’s important to keep your locks well moisturised. 5. Choppy bobs “The choppy bob bridges the gap between a blunt bob and something super layered – it helps give hair texture and movement, creating that perfect rolled-out-of-bed look that’s super chic,” says Moore, who calls it “the cut of the autumn”. In fact, Pinterest searches for ‘choppy bob haircuts’ – perhaps inspired by Wednesday star Jenna Ortega’s ‘do – soared by four times in the three months preceding the end of August, showing just how popular the style is becoming. Moore adds: “If you’re a low maintenance hair lover, this look is perfect for you. It requires limited styling – just some dry shampoo or texturising spray. It can also add some volume for fine strands, and can help lift up weighed down curls.” The best thing about this look? “It’s super easy to style at home – you can make what you want of it,” Moore says. “If you want to add some waves with a curling iron or just roll out of bed with a brush and some texturising spray, this look can be as low or as high maintenance as you need.” Roberts is also a big fan of bobs for autumn. “Think Nineties Whitney Houston vibes,” she says. “The best part about the style is that it can be tailored to your specific curl pattern, which allows you to embrace and enhance your natural hair texture.” Read More The UK’s first dedicated male breast cancer organisation has launched – here’s why it matters How Taylor Swift’s style has evolved over the years Model Emily Ratajkowski unveils latest fashion campaign 10 ways to cosy-up your home for an autumnal vibe 5 must-have bag trends for autumn Dawn O’Porter: ‘I fantasise about the other side of menopause’
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How Taylor Swift’s style has evolved over the years
Taylor Swift graced the burgundy carpet at the Taylor Swift: The Eras Tour world premiere last night (Wednesday 11 October), in a floor-length baby blue Oscar de la Renta gown. The halter neck dress featured bold floral details, including huge appliqué flowers, which Swift paired with stiletto heels in the same colour. The event took place at MC The Grove 14 in Los Angeles, as stars including Beyonce and Julia Garner gathered to mark the launch of the singer’s concert film, directed by Sam Wrench. Taylor’s look showcased her love for mixing up fun, sophisticated and never-dull outfits. But if you think back to when the 33-year-old first walked a red carpet as an emerging artist in 2007, it’s easy to see how much her style has evolved over the years since crossing over into mainstream pop. Here’s how Swift’s red carpet looks have gone from strength to strength… 2007 American Music Awards Swift made her first appearance at the American Music Awards in 2007. Arriving at the Nokia Theatre in Los Angeles, the fledgling star wore a mid-thigh-length black halter neck dress, with a pleated skater style skirt and embellishment detailing down the middle and around the waist, paired with black cowboy boots. 50th Grammy Awards in 2008 Still styling her hair to the side with curly lengths, Swift upped the glam factor in 2008 at the 50th Grammy Awards in Los Angeles. This time, the singer wore a lilac satin floor-length corset gown, with an organza skirt featuring petaled detailing. 2012 ACM Awards The 47th annual Academy of Country Music Awards in 2012, which took place in Las Vegas, saw Swift grace the carpet in a bright white floor-length gown, with metallic gold detailing and cut-outs at the sides. The curls and side parting were replaced by loose lengths and a statement fringe. 2014 Capital Jingle Bell Ball Swift attended the 2014 Capital Jingle Bell Ball at the O2 Arena, London, loud and proud with a no ‘do – a shoulder-length inverted bob. Sporting a multi-coloured, patterned mini dress, paired with black peep toe platform heels, her look was fun, bold and fabulous. 2015 Brit Awards Scooping her first Brit award – for Best International Female Solo Artist – the songwriter wowed in 2015 in a high neck black grown, complete with a trail and red dragon design wrapped around her body. 2019 Time 100 Gala Swift went for a bohemian look at the Time 100 Gala in 2019, in a salmon-pink strapless flowy maxi dress, with yellow panelling and flower embroidery details. She paired it with detached balloon sleeves and a delicate flower detail headband. 2019 Billboard Music Awards Held at the MGM Grand Garden Arena in Las Vegas, Swift attended the 2019 Billboard Music Awards in a mini lilac dress, with frill details aplenty. It also featured lace detailing on the chest and long sleeves. She wore it with beige barely-there heels, still rocking her bangs. 2022 MTV Video Music Awards Swift’s look for the 2022 MTV Awards red carpet brought the glitz and a racy edge. The star wore a see-through and heavily embellished camouflage halter neck mini dress, with low thin straps – paired with a deep red lip and small drop silver earrings to match. 2023 MTV Video Music Awards Before taking home the top prize at the 2023 MTV Video Music Awards, for her Anti-Hero music video, Swift made a sophisticated statement in a floor-length black halter dress, complete with button detailing and a thigh split. She paired it with a collection of necklaces and strappy stiletto heels. Read More ‘She taught me to to defy industry norms’: Taylor Swift hails Beyoncé as ‘guiding light through my career’ Taylor Swift channels her 1989-era for Eras Tour premiere Taylor Swift announces Eras Tour concert film will release today in surprise for fans Model Emily Ratajkowski unveils latest fashion campaign 10 ways to cosy-up your home for an autumnal vibe 5 must-have bag trends for autumn
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Model Emily Ratajkowski unveils latest fashion campaign
Emily Ratajkowski has donned double denim and Clueless-inspired matching sets as the new face of Self-Portrait. Ratajkowski, 32, follows in the footsteps of fellow model Gigi Hadid by appearing in a campaign for the London-based brand. Titled ‘At Home With Self-Portrait’, it aims to capture the joy of getting dressed up for a night at home. The news comes after Ratajkowski hosted the Self-Portrait summer party with British Vogue’s Edward Enninful and Han Chong, the fashion house’s founder and creative director, earlier this year. The campaign is inspired by Chong’s childhood. British visual artist Nick Waplington captured Ratajkowski wearing various looks from Self-Portrait’s latest eveningwear collection, posing alongside a group of children in its kids’ collection. Ratajkowski is seen wearing a beige and navy grid cropped jacket and skater skirt set – perhaps inspired by the iconic yellow matching set from 1995 film Clueless – a chic denim waistcoat and flared jeans two-piece, and a lime green sequinned and embellished bralette paired with washed-out denim jeans. The fashion brand was established in the UK in 2013 and is dedicated to using responsibly sourced fibres. “I grew up in a household that took great pride in dressing up for any and every occasion. This has fuelled my work at Self-Portrait,” Chong said. “For this new campaign, I wanted to reflect the wonderful memories I have of seeing strong women celebrate life in all its forms, and I loved the idea of injecting a sense of occasion into the everyday. “We knew Nick would be able to translate this spirit perfectly – his eye and aesthetic are unparalleled, and I think we have captured Emily at her most comfortable and chameleonic.” Ratajkowski added: “I loved working with Nick – he’s a truly amazing photographer and it was a delight to get into character. Self-Portrait brought together a very special team and I’m thrilled to be a part of their campaign.” The model has appeared in ad campaigns for Versace, DKNY, Miu Miu and more, and launched her own brand, Inamorata, in 2017 – originally dedicated to swimwear, it now offers everything from dresses to accessories. Waplington’s work, which is praised for capturing the way people live their lives, has featured in exhibitions at the Tate Britain, the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Guggenheim Museum in New York. Read More 10 ways to cosy-up your home for an autumnal vibe 5 must-have bag trends for autumn Dawn O’Porter: ‘I fantasise about the other side of menopause’ Everything you need to know about bedbugs as increase in numbers is predicted PE ‘enjoyment gap’ widens for girls: Why it matters and how we can help The psychology of Big Brother: How to survive in the house
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5 must-have bag trends for autumn
When it comes to new season must-haves, a handbag is right up there. An easy style update without the fear of making a fashion disaster, whether you go designer or high street, you know you can bank on a bag being the one thing that’s going to look good – and boost your mood. And for a need-to-know, this season is particularly polished with ladylike top-handle bags to show off your nail art, reds to fire-up winter whites, double denim and black wardrobe essentials, silver silhouettes, and the oh-so larger-than-life XL tote. “While burgundy and deep autumnal reds are always apt for A/W, we predict that bold, fiery reds will be a handbag staple this season,” says Nia Davis, design manager at handbag and accessory brand, Fiorelli. “With many of us turning to darker palettes to match the weather, a pop of bright red is a great way to break up dark outfits and make a statement.” Moreover, designers are offering up moc-croc prints, supersized bags with enough space to carry all your hardware, and more. “Finally, bags are getting more practical and we’re seeing customers trade into larger bags again, especially totes,” opines Zoe Donovan, digital & marketing director, LK Bennett. “They are perfect for every day, and you can fit your evening bag in there for those day-to-night situations.” “And secondly, like all fashion magpies, we’ve fallen for all things metallic, in bags, shoes and clothing!” adds Donovan. Here’s our pick of the pieces to see you through all of the above, and proffer style with substance… 1. Red From practical, crossbody styles to slick, soft pouches, red is never too hot to handle. And the beauty of a red bag is that you can team it with a striking slick of lipstick in the same shade, to add a little bit of drama to those dark, autumnal evenings. Think matchy-matchy for a quick wardrobe and beauty fix. The Drop Women’s Avalon Small Tote Bag, £32.90, Amazon. Astrid Crossbody Red Croc, £59, Fiorelli. 2. Silver What’s not to love about something snazzy and sparkly, that’s both sophisticated and sexy? This season, silver bags have been reimagined for day and evening; what’s more, you can always pair two together… think a slim, silver crossbody for your phone and a squishy clutch for keys and other essentials, to style up staples such as classic knitwear. Naha Animal Strap Silver Crossbody Bag, £42, Oliver Bonas. Bonanza – Silver Diamante-Plait Metallic Clutch Bag, £95, Dune. 3. Top-handle There may be a removable strap or handy chain tucked inside, but it’s all about reaching for a top-handle this season. At first glance, it’s prim and proper, but a handle has its many virtues. Not only can they be placed on your wrist, leaving you hands-free for more shopping sprees, but they also look expensive. Beyond black, gold is a go-to ahead of the party season, while sugary shades channel a girly aesthetic. Coco-effect chain bag, £29.99, Mango. Mini Harbour Gold Leather Trapeze Tote Bag, £299, LK Bennett. 4. Moc-croc print The surprise hit of the season, moc-croc is a chic option – and the easiest way to buy into a designer brand when eyeing up their luxe accessories. Marrying form with function, these croc-effect handbags are having a fashion moment. As Davis puts it: “From old-money aesthetic with tan croc, to a gothcore take with black crocodile, this print can be played with to suit your personal style.” Making moc-croc handbags the perfect option if you’re looking for a timeless classic for your collection. Linden Gardens – Faux Croc Large Zip-Top Shoulder, Dragon, £259, Radley. Lauren Ralph Lauren Sophee 22 Embossed Leather Shoulder Bag, Vintage Brown, £349, John Lewis. 5. Supersized tote What’s not to love about a handbag in XL? Proving we all love to chuck everything in and don’t mind delving deep to find stuff, having room for all those extras is where it’s at with these supersized totes. Whether you go for over the shoulder option or scale up your handheld, the bigger the better, with the added bonus of being able to pop a smaller handbag inside. Vero Zebra Print Tote Bag, £55, Hush. Gwen Grey And Cream Check Fabric Tote Bag, £269, LK Bennett. Read More Dawn O’Porter: ‘I fantasise about the other side of menopause’ Everything you need to know about bedbugs as increase in numbers is predicted PE ‘enjoyment gap’ widens for girls: Why it matters and how we can help The psychology of Big Brother: How to survive in the house How to support someone coming out in their 30s and beyond Israel-Hamas conflict: How to talk to teenagers about distressing news stories
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