In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself

Selena Gomez has stunned in a show-stopping red dress as she marks her return to the VMAs red carpet. Gomez’s appearance at the 2023 MTV VMA’s is a delightful treat for fans since she hadn’t publicly announced that she would be attending, but her showing up in style is far from a surprise. The “Single Soon” singer is up for not only Song of the Year, but Collaboration of the Year, and the Best Afrobeats VMA Awards. The last time the star attended the VMAs was back in 2015, when she was nominated for Song of the Summer for her collaboration with A$AP Rocky on “Good For You.” Gomez also performed “Same Old Love” from her hit album Revival and hung out with one of her longtime best friends Taylor Swift throughout the evening. The Only Murders in The Building actor may be adding a few more trophies to her collection tonight for her international pop hit with Rema for “Calm Down.” Photos posted to X, formerly known as Twitter, showed Gomez posing with fans outside of the awards show, which is taking place at the Prudential Center in Newark, New Jersey. She also posted a video on Instagram of her singing the song along the way to the event. Of the song, Rema told Pitchfork, “‘Calm Down’ is about the events that led me to finding love at the time”. The song resonated with listeners worldwide, and ultimately led to it becoming a contender for one of the most coveted awards of the night. Read More 2023 MTV VMAs: The best-dressed stars on the red carpet, from Olivia Rodrigo to Doja Cat MTV VMAs: Most iconic outfits of all time, from Lil’ Kim to Lady Gaga What time does the 2023 MTV VMAs start and how to watch?

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The 2023 MTV Video Music Awards (VMAs) have arrived, and the stars are pulling out all the fashion stops. The VMAs take place on Tuesday 12 September, as fans and fellow performers celebrate the best music videos and artists of the year. The official ceremony is scheduled to air live from the Prudential Center in Newark, New Jersey, beginning at 5pm PST/ 8pm EST. Returning as the VMA host for the second year in a row is Nicki Minaj, who will also be performing. Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion are also set to perform, along with Demi Lovato, Olivia Rodrigo, Doja Cat, Fall Out Boy, Karol G, Kelsea Ballerini, Måneskin, Reneé Rapp, Shakira, Sabrina Carpenter and Future. Taylor Swift is also set to make an appearance, as she leads this year’s nominees with eight nods. While many viewers are looking forward to show-stopping performances from their favourite artists, the VMAs has also been known for pulling out some memorable fashion moments, such as Lady Gaga’s iconic meat dress. Here’s all the best dressed artists on the 2023 MTV VMAs red carpet. Olivia Rodrigo Olivia Rodrigo dazzled in a low-cut silver column dress. She styled her long hair brown straight, with a center part. Doja Cat Doja Cat wore a barely-there, white Apocene dress that closely resembled spider webs. The look featured sparse, white fabric draped across her body, with a pair of nude underwear hidden underneath the ensemble. She paired her red carpet fashion with see-through heels, diamond drop earrings, and silver bracelets. Read More What time does the 2023 MTV VMAs start and how to watch? Taylor Swift and SZA lead 2023 MTV Video Music Award nominations MTV Video Music Awards return Tuesday, with an all-female artist of the year category Pro-gamer Jukeyz ‘died for two minutes’ after cardiac arrest which left him ‘scared to sleep’ Fashion executive and breast cancer survivor uses her NYFW show to raise awareness Blake Lively fans wowed by Seventies-inspired gold jumpsuit at New York Fashion Week

One brand creator used her runway to raise awareness for breast cancer and encourage women to support their bodies during this year’s New York Fashion Week. As a breast cancer survivor herself, Dana Donofree, who was diagnosed at 27, previously struggled to find the perfect fit when it came to intimates after her mastectomy. The mold and structure of “regular” bras were not only incompetent but seemingly “awful” and “ugly,” according to the designer. That was until she developed the perfect configuration for her own brand, AnaOno. Speaking to Elle, Donofree recounts how her former frustration with limited lingerie options led to the launch of her company. “After removing both my breasts to treat my disease and reconstructing them, I found that ‘regular’ intimates no longer fit. What was available to me instead were these awful, ugly, matronly bras,” she explained. “I knew that we could do better! Women undergoing cancer treatment are already dealing with so much. They don’t also need to deal with hating their clothes. So I started figuring out a solution.” A designer and innovative problem solver, Donofree examined the necessary fit for the recovery stages associated with breast cancer survivors who’ve endured implants, mastectomies, and unilateral removals. No matter how far along a woman is in their individual journey post-diagnosis, AnaOno offers a range of picks from nighties to breathable leisurewear. “Something I’ll never compromise on is absolute inclusion,” the creator continued. “Whether you have two breasts, one breast, no breasts, or new breasts…we’ll make it work for all of it.” With that being said, Donofree ensured her size range varied, with the largest available option being a 3X. Donofree’s desire to design her brand supporting breast cancer survivors was also about inspiring other women, through a fuse of agency, style, ease, and motivation in keeping a healthy body and mind. This also meant straying from the “pink-washing” that is often associated with the disease. The fashion executive noted: “As a survivor myself for 13 years, I can say that there have been times when I’ve been really mad at the ‘pink-washing’ of breast cancer awareness. It felt very exploitive to me, you know, to have your pain and ‘resilience’ put in a marketing campaign!” And that’s exactly what she avoided in this year’s runway display during fashion week in the Big Apple. Inside a Lower East Side church, Donofree’s show titled “(R)Evolution” unfolded negligee versatility to promote properly fitting garments and breast cancer awareness. “I didn’t want to abandon the use of pink altogether, because breast cancer research and awareness saves lives. If we can impact research and find more ways to treat this disease, we can get more time with the ones we love,” the fashion mogul remarked. “And if we can impact awareness, we can ensure people get diagnosed as fast as possible, which leads to many more treatment options.” “We’re finally awakening to the fact that cancer and disease is an issue that’s linked to pollution and environmental damage,” she continued. “Fashion as a whole needs to accept responsibility to create a better earth and healthier humans, because what touches your skin gets absorbed by your skin. Using quality fabric matters a lot to me, and to other fashion designers. And it also matters greatly to cancer patients.” Donofree enlisted the help of #CancerCulture, a patient-led nonprofit organisation dedicated to spreading awareness in creative avenues, to co-produce the show. The brand’s display will also lead to a donation of $25,000 to the Breast Cancer Research Center, with hopes to reach a larger sum of $50,000. In Donofree’s experience, she’s concluded that the right bra will lead to “a better life”. “It’s not just about your body – it’s about your story,” AnaOno’s website reads. “No matter who you are, no matter your story, we believe you should have a bra that fits your unique shape.” Read More Ralph Lauren, a son of the Bronx, takes over Brooklyn in lavish return to NY Fashion Week Proenza Schouler debut effortlessly cool looks at NYFW Tory Burch deconstructs classic style in new NYFW collection Linda Evangelista says she views breast cancer scars as ‘trophies’ after mastectomy Cancer cases in young people ‘are rising’ – the warning signs to look out for Linda Evangelista says she was diagnosed with breast cancer twice within five years

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