As well as introducing groundbreaking garments for women, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel embodied her brand in a way no other designer had done before, a new exhibition highlights. Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto – at London’s V&A Museum – traces the life and work of the famed French designer, who was born in the Loire Valley in 1883 and taught to sew by nuns in the orphanage to which she was sent aged 11, when her mother died. “Before her, designers weren’t really known,” says Oriole Cullen, curator of modern textiles and fashion and the V&A. “Their names were known, but they weren’t visible figures within society.” Starting out as a seamstress and cabaret singer, before establishing herself as milliner, Chanel later turned her focus to couture fashion and began designing casual clothing for women, inspired by the menswear of the era. “The Chanel brand as it stands [today] is really based on these ideas that she ushered in 100 years ago,” Cullen says, which is where the exhibition title comes from. “The meaning of that is really about a template that Gabrielle Chanel set out at the very beginning of her design career and came back to, reimagined and reinvented throughout her long career of sixty years.” Bringing together nearly 200 outfits, the show features items from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the showing of her final collection, two weeks after she died in 1971. Signature designs on display include little black dresses, tweed suits and quilted leather handbags – the most iconic of which is the 2.55 bag. “The 2.55 has never really gone out of fashion since she designed it in 1955,” Cullen says. “That is fascinating in terms of high fashion, that an object can stay the course for such a long time and still be relevant.” Part of the upper echelons of French society, Chanel initially relied on wealthy lovers, such as French ex-cavalry officer Etienne Balsan and English polo player Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel to fund her boutiques. Later becoming a celebrity in her own right, she amassed a personal fortune, thanks to the success of her fashion, accessories and cosmetics lines. “The perfume Chanel No5 was introduced in 1921, but then introducing make-up in 1924 and skincare in 1927, she was really ahead of her time,” Cullen says. “It’s something she was doing because she was designing for herself.” Chanel is credited with helping to liberate women from the constricting corsets and long skirts that were de rigeur at the turn of the century, and for popularising softer textiles, such as jersey. “She cuts her garments with high armholes, so you can lift your arms over your head,” Cullen continues. “She thinks about fabrics that are practical, and skirt lengths you can move in.” The exhibition – which was originally staged at Paris’s Palais Galliera in 2020 – highlights the brand’s UK and Ireland connections via British Chanel Limited. “This was an umbrella company set up in 1932 to work with an array of British textile manufacturers,” Cullen explains. “From lace in Nottingham, cotton velvets from Manchester, wools from Huddersfield, and also voiles and silks from Carlisle. “One of the other companies she worked with was the Old Bleach Linen Company, which is based in Randalstown in Northern Ireland.” Split into 10 sections, the exhibition concludes with a recreation of the mirrored staircase from Chanel’s Paris atelier. “Gabrielle Chanel used to sit at the top of the stairs when she was having presentations,” Cullen explains. “The models would descend and this faceted mirror would reflect back the audience’s faces to her, so she could read the mood in the room.” Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto opens at London’s V&A Museum on September 16. Tickets available at vam.ac.uk/chanel. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live 6 times Kate has worn London Fashion Week designers Pro-gamer Jukeyz ‘died for two minutes’ after cardiac arrest which left him ‘scared to sleep’ Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition

It’s been dubbed Britain’s answer to New York’s Met Gala: London’s first ever Vogue World, happening this Thursday, will be a star-studded theatrical extravaganza, fundraising for Britain’s cash-strapped performing arts scene. And at the helm, of course, is Vogue’s all-powerful Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour. Billed as a “multi-act celebration of the British performing arts”, the event will be fabulously starry. On the line-up will be British celebrity royalty, including supermodels Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and Adwoa Aboah, British rapper Stormzy, former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham as well as actors Ian McKellen and Idris Elba. In 2022, the first ever Vogue World took over New York’s meatpacking district with a rough-and-ready fashion show and street food fair, paying homage to the city’s street atmosphere and culture. It was quite the eclectic affair. “Old Town Road” singer Lil Nas X performed with the Hadid sisters as backup, 112 models stormed the runway to Madonna’s “Vogue” while Serena Williams made a surprise cameo. And it was all wrapped up with a street food party featuring pop-up stalls run by couture houses (think pastrami sandwiches courtesy of Michael Kors, gourmet cookies by Gucci and high tea by Burberry). Vogue World’s pilgrimage to UK soil feels like an inevitable one, given that British and US Vogues are at the heart of Conde Nast’s operation. But behind Vogue World is an epic power struggle between the two editors, Wintour and British Vogue’s outgoing editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, as she moves closer into his territory and is even rumoured to be looking to relocate back to London. On the surface, the fundraising goal is the same as the Met Gala – a philanthropic arts cause the fashion crowd can get behind while at the same time beaming the Vogue brand around the world. Thursday’s extravaganza will be held at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in London’s West End to raise money for Britain’s critically underfunded performing arts scene, which Anna Wintour insists is “under threat”. All net proceeds from ticket sales will be pledged to a range of performing arts organisations – but so far, they all seem to be based in London – including the National Theatre, Royal Opera House and the Royal Ballet. “The arts are under threat in the UK,” said Wintour of the fundraising decision. “Vogue World will be a timely reminder of how important they are, how vital a part of our lives, and how much they need our support.” A three-tiered party The main attraction of the night, like the Met Gala, will be the red carpet running outside of the theatre, where celebrities will fight it out to be the best dressed in the latest Spring Summer 2024 couture. But that won’t be all the event has to offer: those who were lucky enough to scoop up the exclusive and now sold out £150 tickets will watch live performances overseen by The Crown director Stephen Daldry, followed by a catwalk show featuring collections from British fashion labels like 16Arlington, Burberry and Vivienne Westwood to kick off London Fashion Week, which starts this Friday. Although the details of the event are being kept under the closest secrecy, we can hope for a number of spectacular surprises – perhaps cameos from British acting greats on stage at the Theatre Royal, or live performances from stars confirmed to be attending, like Stormzy or opera singer Hongni Wu? The theme The Met Gala is famed for its iconic yet often polarising themes, some of which have been cemented into fashion history. There was 2019’s Camp: Notes on Fashion, which saw Lady Gaga go through four theatrical outfit changes, or last year’s ode to the late controversial Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld, with both Doja Cat and Jared Leto styling themselves as Lagerfeld’s beloved white cat, Choupette. While the Met Gala was launched as a fundraising evening for New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in 1948, the event has grown to be the most exclusive event of the year, with an all-important red carpet arrival followed by a glamorous charity dinner and afterparty. The theme for Vogue World 2023 is in keeping with its cause. The invitation for the event says the dress code is “Opening Night”, with the invitation’s design depicting a West End stage covered by blood-red velvet curtains. Meanwhile, the original poster for Vogue World’s London edition sees British supermodel Naomi Campbell standing in a dance studio, dressed in all-black, while a group of leotard-clad ballet dancers straddle a wooden barre behind her – another nod to Britain’s performing arts scene. Though Vogue World tickets do not come with a price tag as hefty as the Met Gala’s eye-watering $50,000, we hope celebrities tackle the Vogue World theme with the same commitment. Expect lots of West End theatrics, glamorous gowns, theatre binoculars and endless references to London’s world-leading theatre culture. The guest list The guest list is expected to be packed out with A-listers (the theatre’s auditorium seats more than 2000 people). Representing British supermodels will be Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and Adwoa Aboah. It’s likely that Enninful’s very close friend and confidante Naomi Campbell will be playing a leading role, given that she appeared in the original marketing campaign for the event. British rapper Stormzy, former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham as well as actors Ian McKellen and Idris Elba will all be involved in the theatrics in some capacity, as we know. Bridgerton’s Simone Ashley, Sienna Miller, Emilia Clarke and Kate Winslet will also be dropping in, while musician FKA Twigs is also expected to participate in some capacity since she was also included in Vogue’s announcement. But all eyes will be on “Vossi Bop” rapper Stormzy and who might turn up on his arm; it’s rumoured that he has rekindled his romance with Love Island presenter Maya Jama after fans spotted that the pair were holidaying in the same villa. We have word from Maya’s publicist that she is filming abroad, but seeing as the presenter starred on the August cover of British Vogue, will she fly back in time for the big event? The politics Vogue World comes at a time when Vogue’s senior editorial team is under scrutiny like never before The event has been billed on its invite as a collaboration between Edward Enninful and Anna Wintour, but it is very much seen as Wintour’s creation. Many will be watching closely, given rumours of a “feud” between the two editors ahead of Enninful’s departure. The rumour mill began the whir when the company announced in June that Enninful, who became the first Black gay man to take the role of editor-in-chief in 2017, would step back from Editor-in-Chief at British Vogue in January to become a “global creative and cultural advisor”. Alexandra Shulman, who was succeeded by Enninful when she stepped down as editor in 2017, has since said that Enninful was “always playing second fiddle to Anna Wintour” within the company, amid rumours that Enninful had harboured ambitions to become editor of US Vogue, which led to a rumoured rift between him and Wintour That Wintour is on Enninful’s London turf is being seen very much as her taking back “control”.She is said to be sizing up who will be Enninful’s replacement as British Vogue’s notably less fancy sounding “head of editorial content”, as the company’s senior editorial team prepares for an internal shakeup. At the front of the race is Chioma Nnadi, editor of vogue.com, and a global network lead at the company – a London girl who could be coming back to UK soil to take up the role when Enninful leaves. “Chioma is a great choice,” one insider told The Times. “She is serious and clever and knows her stuff. She doesn’t suffer fools.” Another Conde Nast insider told the newspaper: “Chioma isn’t the terrifying fashion editor of old. She’s quite shy one-on-one, and very calm. She’s one of those people that pauses before she answers a question.” One source credited Chioma for being down to earth. Another said: “She Brooklyn, not Manhattan”, while another said the journalist is the “nicest person” they had ever dealt with at Vogue. An announcement is expected this week with whispers that the news could break at Vogue World on Thursday. However, also in the running alongside Nnadi is Sarah Harris, the European deputy editor and another global network lead, who has worked on the fashion desk for almost two decades and has become an influencer of sorts, having been credited for making silvery-grey hair cool with her unmistakable locks. Others in the running could be Mark Holgate, another Brit in New York, who heads up fashion news on the US edition, or Emily Sheffield, the former editor of The Evening Standard and Vogue deputy from 2005 to 2017, who is also the sister of David Cameron’s wife Samantha. However, it seems a decision has not yet been made – the vacancy for Head of Editorial Content on the Conde Nast careers portal still says applications are open. Vogue fans will be watching what happens next in the chapter of fashion’s most iconic title and who will win the battle for its soul. Thursday’s gala could be a chance for Vogue to retain its relevancy in the world of live-streamed red-carpet events (Vogue’s Met Gala live stream generated 53 million viewers alone last year). And while Wintour is certainly the face of the Met Gala as its host, it is not Vogue’s creation, nor is it Conde Nast’s. Could Thursday night be an opportunity for Conde Nast to call a red-carpet event its own? Whatever the goal, this week’s Vogue World is clear evidence of the brand’s desire to evolve and maybe Anna Wintour’s desire to take back control. Read More Ex-Vogue editor claims Edward Enninful was ‘always playing second fiddle’ to Anna Wintour Edward Enninful steps down as British Vogue editor-in-chief to take on new Condé Nast role amid reports of rift Kate Winslet rails against male executives who ‘patronised’ her while she was raising money for new war drama Vogue story on Kylie Jenner and Timothée Chalamet’s sparks backlash Saweetie’s ‘caveman’ inspired VMAs dress sparks comparisons to The Flintstones Selena Gomez returns to the VMAs red carpet in stunning red dress

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In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself

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CHICAGO--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Sep 12, 2023--

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